Ethical Fashion Symposium

Eco-Ethical Clothing, Ethical Business Practices, Global Garment Industry, Guilt-Free Fashion No Comments »


“Ethical fashion represents an approach to design, sourcing and manufacture of clothing, which is both socially and environmentally sustainable”.

But if you’re reading our blog, you may already know that. Otherwise, you may be looking for Garments Without Guilt, but you’re just not sure how to choose your guilt-free clothes.

Manufacturers and clothing retailers who are interested in giving you ethical and environmentally made clothing are gathered in Sri Lanka at the first ever Sri Lanka Design Festival to discuss the why’s and the how’s to make it happen. At the Ethical Fashion Symposium held on November 29th, they discussed topics such as:

• The business case for sustainability
• Is sustainable/ethical sourcing satisfying or creating consumer demand?
• How much international interest is there in ethical sourcing and how to market the products to the industry?
• How relevant is the sustainability of a product to the fashion reporting?
• What are the necessary definitions for ethically sourced products and how do you enforce standards?
• How much does the ethical/sustainable message need to be incorporated into fashion education?
• And of course, how are suppliers in Sri Lanka making the change from price-driven to ethically-driven demand?

You as a consumer may not even want to know the answers to these questions. But aren’t you glad the industry leaders are asking them and looking for the answers on your behalf?

Our friend Kelsey Timmerman has written a book about his journey as an engaged consumer called “Where Am I Wearing?” and he’s the guy in this video, giving you a more real-world way of understanding the ideas behind ethical fashion, and we promise you’ll enjoy the ride and come away smarter.

You can also peruse the categories to the right to learn more about Guilt-Free Fashion and Ethical Business Practices. Or visit some of our featured links like Ethical Consumer Magazine or Ethical and Green Living.

You may have also heard the concept discussed with the term Fair Trade. Check out our recent article called “Fair Trade Products Beautify the World!” or from our GWG Universe Blog “Fair Trade Does A World of Good”.

We at Garments Without Guilt want you to know all you can about ethically made, guilt-free clothing so that you know what to ask for!�

Organic Cotton and Responsibility Help Top Lists

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Last month, Garments Without Guilt noticed a few lists of companies that we thought would be worth sharing. The first, from Treehugger.com, lists the top ten buyers of organic cotton worldwide. The second comes from Ethical Corporation’s “Greenwasher” column, pointing out the companies that are responsible and don’t greenwash. And of course, there is a bit of overlap, and a few other players we wanted to highlight, putting them in our own order, of course.

Our featured overlap between the two lists is number 3 on the organic cotton list-Garments Without Guilt member company, Nike. Treehugger says “Nike has been a stealth user of organic cotton, mixing the material into its cotton clothing with little fanfare. According to the company, its goal is to blend a minimum of 5 percent organic cotton into all of its cotton-containing apparel materials by 2010, while steadily expanding its offering of 100 percent certified-organic cotton products.”

But Ethical Corporation also put Nike on their list for their considered design and integrated sustainability: “Nike’s head of sustainability has a say in both product design and supply chain strategy. The firm has done a root and branch review of its business from a sustainability point of view, worked hard on cultivating loyal suppliers, and won plaudits from campaigners for its openness on difficult labour issues. Good work, then, from Nike, and helpful margins on products too!”

Next, we wanted to offer kudos to another of the Garments Without Guilt member companies who made Ethical Corporation’s list—Marks & Spencer. They say they’re an “example that has been well-covered, by everyone from the Economist to this magazine. However, M&S has to work hard to hit its 100 targets on sustainability by 2012, but it’s 20% there already, and might just do it. Consistent support from senior leadership has been key, next to a long-standing and committed sustainability team.”

The number 10 company on the organic cotton list is Hessnatur from Germany. We spotted a grainy little video about them on the Lazy Environmentalist’s blog with a post explaining that Hess Natur’s Fall/Winter 2009 collection is made from pesticide/insecticide-free wools, organic cotton, and silk, using beeswax sealant for water-proofing. This 30-year old German-based eco/ethical fashion company has since 2007 become a serious, high fashion player, as evidenced by a spread featuring Cameron Diaz in Vogue Magazine. But we found video from the set of Vogue’s June eco-friendly fashion shoot starring Cameron Diaz, and provided it above for you. You’re welcome.

The other overlap between lists was the number one buyer of organic cotton in the world: Wal-Mart. Ethical Corporation tells us “the behemoth has impressive plans on supplier score carding on sustainability, and sustainability taskforces on around 100 key products. Unions still hate it, but environmental NGOs are impressed.”

Another apparel company who made the Ethical Corporation list was Timberland, for their commitment to both labor and the environment. “With probably the most inspiring, honest and authentic leader in big business today – Jeff Swartz – Timberland really does get it. From labelling boots with the factories where they are made, to sourcing recycled rubber from tyres, the firm stands head and shoulders above most others.”

Finally, number 6 on the organic cotton list impressed us. Anvil Knitwear, from the US, is apparently the maker of the first carbon-neutral T-shirt. To raise environmental awareness for Earth Day, Anvil, in partnership with the Sierra Club and Carbonfund.org, they donated more than 6,000 recycled-cotton and roughly 1,500 organic cotton tees to schools, universities, and environmental organizations.

To see the lists in their entirety and in order, visit TreeHugger.com and EthicalCorp.com.

Join us in our quest for guilt-free products, and maybe you can top a list someday too!

It’s TIME to ask “Where Am I Wearing?”

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GWG was excited to spot our friend Kelsey Timmerman’s book, Where Am I Wearing, reviewed in TIME Magazine’s recent Commemorative Issue with US President-elect Barack Obama on the cover. 

Since the issue is incredibly difficult to come by, we’ll share with you what the review says:

ONE DAY, WHILE STARING AT A PILE OF clothes, the twentysomething author decided to embark on a quixotic journey and trace the garments to their countries of origin. His venture, often loopy (he carries his JINGLE THESE Christmas boxer shorts back to Bangladesh) takes him all over the developing world. His conclusion-after meeting Amilcar, Arifa, Nari and Ai-is that the reality of the workers’ lives is harsh. “When it comes to clothing, others make it, and we have it made.” Timmerman’s youthful exuberance carries this unlikely consumer tale.


If you haven’t already, be sure to read GWG’s interview with Kelsey, and look for his book on the shelves of your favorite bookstore (real or virtual), because it’s available now! 

“Where Am I Wearing?”-The Book…and the Interview

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We know you GWG readers are on the frontlines of the growing number of consumers who are interested in how and where your clothes are made. And because you’re so far ahead of the pack, we wanted to give you an early tip on a book that you are sure to appreciate and enjoy.

“Where Am I Wearing?” by Kelsey Timmerman, is due for release on December 1st, but we were fortunate enough to receive an advanced copy. He was so interested in how and where his clothes were being made, that he traveled to the Honduras, Bangladesh and China to find the factories, and meet the people who made his clothes. An intelligent, down-to-earth person with an inquisitive mind, a good sense of humor, and a taste for adventure, we found his honest, insightful take refreshing enough that it’s sure to inspire many to follow in his footsteps.

GWG talked with Kelsey to find out more:

GWG: You said in the book that when you talked to people about your quest, you were surprised to find that they assumed that their clothes were made in sweatshops. Where do you think they got that idea from?

Kelsey: I think that 10 years ago or more, you had the whole Kathie Lee scandal popping up. That’s what the news was reporting at that moment in time, and it was a big deal back then. I think that just got ingrained in them-that that’s where their clothes came from. And they came to accept the ‘fact’ that all their clothes were made somewhere else, and they’re all made in the worst possible conditions by people who are exploited. And what amazed me was that if they thought this, why didn’t they have a problem with it?

GWG: Exactly. So you talk about being an engaged consumer, what exactly would that entail? How would you tell these people to be engaged consumers?

Kelsey: Well you know it’s not a super easy thing to do. You can’t just say ‘do this, do that’. What I’ve tried to do is I’ve tried to research the brands before I buy anything. You can go on their website and look to see if they reveal where their factories are. You can tell really quickly if the brand is engaged or not. If they have two paragraphs written about the people who make their stuff and where they’re made, and under what conditions their products are made, then you know that. . . that’s not quite enough, in my book. What is enough? I think everyone has to kind of decide for themselves.

Recently I was shopping online at Patagonia, which is a company I mention in the book. Companies don’t really allow us to be really engaged consumers, they don’t really encourage the consumer. . . even a company like Patagonia, who tends to be more of an engaged company than most, on their website it just says ‘imported’ for the clothes. It doesn’t say where they were imported from.

So the other day before I bought the items I bought, I e-mailed them, or filled out their form on just their generic customer service form, saying “Hey, I’m looking at this product, this product and this product. Where were they made?”

GWG: Did you get a response?

Kelsey: Within an hour.

GWG: Oh, wow!

Kelsey: They responded immediately, and I placed my order, and woo-hoo! Go engaged consumer!

(GWG note: Kelsey’s blog reported soon after this interview that Patagonia has changed their site to reflect this.)

GWG: I don’t know if you’ve heard of the Lazy Environmentalist., he says that most people are Lazy Environmentalists, they need an easy place to start. Would you recommend people do what you did- which is to look at the clothes they already own and maybe check into those items as a starting place?

Kelsey: Yeah, I think if people started looking in their own wardrobe, where their products come from, and what company made their products, then that’s a place to start to educate yourself.

You know, there’s no sure way to say ‘this is how to ensure that your products are made under conditions that you approve of’. Like I mention in the book about people’s eating habits, some people are vegetarians, some people are vegans, some people are on the Atkins Diet some people are on the junk food diet. I just think you have to have some kind of your own standards. Maybe you don’t want to buy clothes made in China because you don’t approve of their human rights record, maybe you want to buy clothes made in Sri Lanka or Bangladesh to help support a growing industry in those countries.

I think it’s a personal decision and there’s not enough information out there for anyone to say ‘this is how you should go about buying your clothes’ because it’s just so different, no matter where you buy them from.

GWG: I’m thinking of the carbon offset industry-where you can buy carbon offsets and feel a little less guilty about flying or the energy used for your home. Can you think of anything that would be the equivalent for people who feel guilty about the clothes they’ve bought?

Kelsey: I guess I’ve been looking for some things like that. I don’t know if I’ve found anything that I would definitely recommend to everybody at this point in time. To me a lot of the poor working conditions, or not-so-great working conditions, associated with places isn’t so much the garment industry as much as the country and conditions that the industry is taking place in. So you maybe could donate to a worker’s rights group in a certain country.

More than anything I think that poverty is the large issue. Organizations like ONE, the campaign to end poverty €¦to raise poverty awareness and try to eliminate poverty, and kind of raise everybody up as we go, maybe something like that.

One thing is, I don’t think we should clear our conscience of the matter completely, you know? With the carbon thing, if you go out and pollute like crazy and then buy your way out of it, is that really going to clear your conscience? Is that the way to go about things?

I don’t know. I think we should just understand where our clothes come from and who’s making our clothes.

GWG: You have a lot of backup research throughout the book. Is that stuff you already knew, was that in your head as you went on the trip? Or was it stuff that you researched and put in afterward to tell the story?

Kelsey: Well I think it probably varies somewhat with what I knew and what I didn’t know. I had gone to that SweatFree conference before, so I was trying to educate myself before the trip about the industry, and I had read several different books.

The Triangle Shirtwaist factory fire of 1911 in New York City- I knew about that stuff and basically how the industry got started and how it moved. The first book I turned to was “Travels of a T-shirt” by Pietra Ravoli. And so I read that book before I left.

GWG: You talk about the cultural meaning behind things like t-shirts and jeans, and a person’s closet being a museum of them. Was that something that you had thought about before you decided to go on the quest? Were you really interested in what the clothes meant to you? Or did that come only after you noticed the countries that they were made in?

Kelsey: Oh I guess a little bit of both. I am wearing my USA shorts that I write about. So I do grow attached to certain pieces of clothes. I don’t buy that many clothes, I’m not obsessed with clothes by any means. But then you think about things like blue jeans and there’s a certain nostalgia you can associate with clothes. You know, you have memories of your childhood and you think “Well, what was I wearing?”

Then when I got back from the trip, definitely. You see what you always thought about blue jeans, and then you see where they were made and who’s making them, and it definitely changes your perception. It gives you something more to compare-what you always thought about blue jeans to the real story of blue jeans.

GWG: One of the other things I thought was interesting, is that you mentioned that by looking at her, you couldn’t tell if Arifa’s child was a boy or a girl because “some people can’t afford engendering clothing”. I had never thought about that before, that it would be a luxury to be able to choose pink or blue for your kid. I just thought it was an interesting point about the sociology of clothing.

Kelsey: Yeah, they just put ‘em in whatever they’ve got. I’m sure that they have some outfits for her that probably look more girlish, but none that I ever saw.

GWG: One of the things that comes through in the book is that what we in developed nations believe children should be entitled to, is not what the experience is for children in developing nations.

You were talking about how you felt better when you had a quest, when you had a purpose a direction to go, what quest do you have now?

Kelsey: Now I guess, in life, I have a baby coming in December, so that’s my biggest quest.

GWG: And you’ll get to put the baby in engendering clothes . . .

Kelsey: (Laughing) That’ll be my wife’s job.

And on that note, we’ll close, but you can hear Kelsey telling some of the stories from his book for World Vision, a humanitarian organization “dedicated to working with children, families and their communities worldwide to reach their full potential by tackling the causes of poverty and injustice.”

You can access them from his blog, www.whereamIwearing.com or by clicking on these story titles:

Fantasy Kingdom
Bibi Russel interview

And check back because there are more to come.

Be sure to pre-order his book so you can read the first chapter in advance:
and then spread the word!

Kelsey Timmerman interviewed for Garments Without Guilt by Malayna Dawn.

GWG & The Beijing Olympics

Addressing Environmental Issues, CSR, Eco-Ethical Clothing, Ethical Business Practices, Global Garment Industry No Comments »

The video above is a fun way to acknowledge the Garments Without Guilt member companies who contributed to the development of the Speedo LZR swimsuit. It’s from Mo Rocca, a reporter known for his off-beat take on the news, satirical commentary and ability to make the audience laugh, as well as the interview subjects-in this case Olympian Michael Phelps and his teammates.

From GWG’s news page:
From just-style.com

Sri Lanka's Stretchline Holdings, a specialist in performance enhancing apparel products, was one of the firms that helped Speedo produce the LZR Racer swimsuit that has proved so popular at the Olympics.

just-style has learnt that two elements holding the LZR Racer together, and on the swimmer's body, were developed in the R&D centres of the Sri Lankan joint-venture company.

Stretchline originally developed the elements, called Stay4sure and the Bond-Elast, to be used in lingerie and activewear, before the two innovations were spotted by Speedo when the swimwear company was on the look-out for components for the LZR Racer.

Stay4sure is a sticky silicone that is placed at the ankle of the swimsuit. It gently adheres to the skin and forms an extra seal to help hold the suit in place during use.

The Bond-Elast, seam reinforcement tape can be bonded over the ultrasonically welded seams of the swimsuit, instead of stitching, to create a flat seam.

In other Olympic garment news, here’s the latest from Impressions Magazine, The Decorated Apparel Authority:

Coca-Cola Provides Olympic Athletes with Sustainable Apparel
Aug 25, 2008

The Coca-Cola Co. distributed this "I'm from Earth" shirt to more than 15,000 athletes, coaches and other team officials participating in the Olympic Games. The production of each shirt recycled roughly five plastic bottles.

Coca-Cola’s eco-friendly T-shirts and visors are made from a blend of cotton and recycled polyethylene terephthalate (PET), a material commonly used to make plastic bottles. Both items were printed with the statement, “I’m from Earth,” which relays the messages of conserving environmental resources as well as unity for the Games. The T-shirt backs feature a design of five Coca-Cola contour bottle silhouettes indicating the number of PET bottles recycled to make each shirt. One PET bottle was used in manufacturing the visors given to the Paralympians.

More than 200,000 plastic bottles — roughly 6 tons -  were reclaimed from the manufacturing of the Olympic recycled T-shirts and visors.

This news prompted some interesting discussions when posted to Treehugger.com:

“…now the that cotton and the PET are blended, neither can be recycled. Great. Not exactly a closed-loop innovation.”

“Standardized, deposit refundable, reusable bottles refilled at regional depots are ( and were) much better for the environment, than single-commercial-use recyclable PET bottles. And replacing that stream of reusable bottles with a stream of recyclable bottles seems to be an environmental misstep.”

What do you think, readers?  Does every step forward require yet more innovation to remain sustainable?

Are you a Lazy Environmentalist?

Addressing Environmental Issues, CSR, Eco-Ethical Clothing, Ethical Business Practices, Global Garment Industry, Guilt-Free No Comments »

The video here is from The Sundance Channel’s Eco Biz program, featuring Josh Dorfman, an author & radio show host of a show called “The Lazy Environmentalist” and green entrepreneur.

“If you wanna reach people over the environment, don’t guilt trip ‘em, don’t preach, just basically say,’ look, we’ve got some challenges to face, but we’ve got some really good options and I wanna tell you about them…

It’s not so much environmental activism like ‘let’s go join the march’, it’s really trying to position environmental choices, green choices as ‘this can improve your life’.”

Perusing his book and visiting his webpage revealed the following fashion-related websites that GWG recommends checking out.

Lime.com- the company through which The Lazy Environmentalist broadcasts his  radio show. The website, with the tagline “Healthy Living with a Twist” currently features a story called “Eco Fashion for Everyone“. 

SustainableStyle.org - cyber-home to the Sustainable Style Foundation. “From fashion, food and film to interior design, travel, music and more, SSF has designs on making sustainability the next big thing, as well as a timeless trend by using the power of popular culture to influence consumer choices in fun, positive, and creative ways.”

The Fabulously Green blog offers “sleek, sustainable finds in fashion and design for those who love style and the planet."

FiftyRx3 - A formula created from the following “a goal of averaging fifty percent sustainability based on the environmental mantra 'reuse, reduce, recycle'. The site’s tagline: “perusing the crossroads of style and sustainability.”

GreatGreenGoods is a shopping blog that believes “if you truly want to live ‘green’ you should shop mindfully and live with less. However, if you really need to purchase, we make it our job to dig up the ordinary as well as the unusual eco-friendly products created from recycled materials.”

Organic Exchange.org - “a unique resource for those interested in organic cotton…We create solutions which improve environmental quality, enhance the livelihoods of farmers, increase profitability for innovative brands and their business partners and expand consumer choice.”

Summer Rayne.net - “an entomologist and environmental scientist by training, in 2000, she…embarked on a journey of cause-related modeling to push sustainability through fashion and the mainstream media. She travels the world working on sustainable development programs, helping highlight innovative initiatives, consults on sustainable business, and rocks the runways for eco-conscious designers and companies. Keep an eye open for her on Discovery Network's new channel, Planet Green.”

Prana.com -A women’s organic outdoor wear company that says “We’re always looking for new ways to fold sustainable materials and practices into our collection, working to reduce the impact on soils, water supplies and other natural resources. As a member of the Organic Trade Association, prAna is continually increasing the use of organic cotton, as well as sourcing other natural fibers and innovative recycled/upcycled materials.”
In closing, contemplate these questions from Josh Dorfman:

“I think the overwhelming majority of people are ‘lazy environmentalists’…

“Can we shift ‘green’? Can we make it something that instead of being a guilt trip, some kind of moral decision, can we make it attractive?”

At GWG, we know the answer is YES.

Where Are You Wearing?

Eco-Ethical Clothing, Global Garment Industry 1 Comment »


Everybody loves a tee-shirt, but for this guy, his t-shirt was the beginning of a journey.  Where Am I Wearing.com is a site put together by a guy from America who came up with an interesting idea-to travel to the places where his clothes were made. The video above is his explanation of his quest.

Kelsey Timmerman, the aforementioned “guy”, put his anthropology degree to use while offering his readers a his unique viewpoint as he visited garment workers in Honduras, Bangladesh, Cambodia, and China, and documented his thoughts and experiences as he went. For anyone interested in the global garment industry, this site is definitely worth exploring.

His video quotes the song “Mad World“, a song made popular by the band Tears for Fears in the 80’s, (hear the song as it’s meant to be by clicking here):

“All around me are familiar faces, worn out places, worn out faces
Bright and early for the daily races, going nowhere, going nowhere…

…I find it hard to tell you, I find it hard to take
When people run in circles it’s a very, very mad world.”

He also quotes the song “Yahweh” by U2. (Listen by clicking here).

“Take this shirt, polyester white trash made in nowhere,
Take this shirt, and make it clean, clean
Take this soul, stranded in some skin and bones
Take this soul, And make it sing”


Pictures of Bibi Russell, the supermodel turned designer who runs Fashion for
Development to uplift the local handloom industry in Bangladesh, are juxtaposed downtrodden workers-a confusing but realistic view of the ups and downs of the global garment industry. Upon further investigation, his site includes a radio interview with Ms. Russell, so he obviously knows what good work she’s doing.  She apparently figures prominently in his book about his adventures.

Timmerman has yet to visit Sri Lanka, but Garments Without Guilt is in touch with him, and we are sure we’ll make a good impression with our guilt-free fashions!